@Commissar Elusive  
You do realize the paint on this model is actually thin enough to see the undercoat through it don’t you?  
It needs another coat.  
I prefer to get a clean finish for this army, it’s easier to clean up around the character pictures when they’re painted on if it’s a flat color.  
I do know how to do washes, drybrushing, overbrushing and highlighting, but those take a while to do, and I tend to save those for character models, or if I’m doing something for a competition piece. (Never won the competitions, but usually place 3rd or 4th. Even got a prize for one of my paint jobs. High Elf chariot. It was a second; damaged box. Came in 2nd place that time).  
Still, to each their own. I know there’s players out there that can paint far better than I can.  
There’s players out there that don’t have 2000+ figures floating around waiting to get painted too…..

@Commissar Elusive  
Base-coat washing is THE SHIT.  
So simple, yet so effective at making those little details pop.  
Especially the little creases in brows.

@40kponyguy  
Yeah, I’m pretty much saying to thin your paints. The decal looks really nice, but the fuselage looks like it can be worked on a little more. When the paint is thinned, you won’t drown out the lines and crevasse on the hull; sure it may take 5 or 6 coats to do, but it will look nicer. Applying a wash after base coating will flush out the details and make it more battle worn depending on how thorough you wash it.
 
This vid might be insightful, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aDKmQj4DtII about 2:00 in

@Commissar Elusive  
Thinly veiled ‘thin your paints’ comment there?
 
Whilst I have done this on this model, I did make the mistake of putting my thumb on the white section at the front when the paint hadn’t quite set.
 
Seriously though, ‘thin your paints’ comments would get posted in a discussion about dry-brushing techniques.  
I do have 2 pictures of marines, which whilst being cleverly converted, seriously needed a better paint job. May post those at some point.  
One’s a missile launcher guy with pinkie pie in the weapon, and the other’s a marine with fluttershy flying off his arm. The paint jobs there REALLY needed to have thinner paint though.  
They look like the base coat was done by dunking them in the paint pot!

What’s the paint/water ratio you have there?

@Background Pony #AD9D  
Forgot to sign in before I replied…  
I noticed one thing in the rules for this.  
‘Relic of the armoury’.
 
I know what this means.
 
At first,it meant you HAD to field a master of the forge if you used one of these gunships.
 
I think someone at forge world figured this would decrease sales of the models though, so this has now been altered to ‘if you want to field more than a single fire raptor, a master of the forge must be chosen as an HQ choice for the army’

@SingleCrystal  
That’s the weapon in the nose of this thing.  
It’s also got missiles in the wings, and heavy bolter ball turrets, with the option of exchanging them for autocannons, (which I did).
 
Pretty good centrepiece for my pony army when I can’t unleash my titans.
 
I still want a knight for this army, as nearly everyone at the local club has either a Riptide, Wraithknight, Gorkanought, or a knight.  
I’ve very little in the pony army that can deal with these things.  
My aircraft can really upset the balance in a game, but my opponents know this and have counters for them. (Usually a 5 man devastator unit all with flak missiles).  
Pretty sure Gilda’s bolt cannon should upset them.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Downloads/Product/PDF/F/fire-raptor.pdf
 
Avenger Bolt Cannon: Twin-Linked BS4 S6 AP3 Heavy 7
 
Aww yeah.